In China, there’s a traditional custom called zhuazhou, celebrated on a child’s first birthday. During this event, various objects are placed around the child—such as a book, a mirror, food, a stethoscope, a seal and even an abacus. The belief is that the item the child selects first offers a clue about their future career or life direction.
“When my child did zhuazhou, he reached for a small gavel—the kind a judge uses to make a final ruling. It was interpreted as a sign that my child might one day become a judge,” Li Gen, chief designer at Caibai Jewelry, a Chinese gold jewelry brand, told Beijing Review.
Li and his team transformed these traditional zhuazhou objects into gold pendants, each carrying a meaningful, cultural symbol. For example, the seal pendant: In ancient, and even present-day, China, the seal is a sign of power, used by officials to authenticate documents. Wearing this pendant signifies the potential for holding power and status, blending heritage with a touch of modern elegance.
“Some customers buy the entire set of gold pendants—around 10 in total—and string them together with red cords to create a necklace for their babies to wear,” Li explained.
In China, it is common for elders to gift newborns a gold lock. People believe that putting a lock around a child’s neck could “secure” their life, protecting them from harm and illness. The gold lock suggests wishes for the child’s health, safety and longevity.
However, today’s young parents consider a simple gold lock somewhat outdated. Gold jewelry like the zhuazhou-inspired pendants—combining craftsmanship with cultural motifs—appeals to their sense of style, individuality and modern taste. This shift reflects a key part of the cultural code underpinning China’s “Gold Rush 2.0.”
‘Goldenizing’ cultural concepts
China’s “Gold Rush 1.0” happened in 2013. As gold prices plummeted to a two-year low, Chinese dama—a colloquial term for middle-aged and senior women—seized the opportunity, collectively purchasing an estimated 300 tons of gold in a matter of weeks. Their swift action not only helped stabilize a faltering market but also caught financial analysts by surprise. This event demonstrated the influence of Chinese retail consumers on global markets and reaffirmed gold’s lasting appeal in Chinese society.
Gold has long held a special place in Chinese culture, denoting wealth and good fortune. It is an ideal choice for holiday gifts, celebratory occasions and family heirlooms.
With a burst of fresh energy, gold is shedding its old-fashioned image and moving beyond its association with dama alone. Central to this transformation is Chinese culture, which plays a big role in giving gold its modern, revitalized appeal.
While the tradition of gifting gold jewelry to newborns exists worldwide, China adds its own twist through the zhuazhou ceremony, imbuing gold pieces with cultural meaning. Beyond baby customs, Li also explored the variety of Chinese wedding customs.
In ancient China, a woman’s dowry was an essential part of her marriage. It included items she brought with her to her husband’s home—ranging from everyday necessities like shoes, scissors and a ruler, to more symbolic objects that conveyed figurative connotations, including a mirror, an abacus, and even a straw hat.
In modern times, as living standards continue to rise, a woman’s dowry—the nature and importance of which today vary based on factors such as location, socioeconomic status and family traditions—often includes gold and silver jewelry, along with a considerable amount of cash, home appliances, and a car, among others. However, gold items are no longer limited to traditional pieces like necklaces and bracelets.
Caibai Jewelry has reimagined the ancient concept of a tangible dowry by transforming it into exquisite gold figurines, adding a whole new level of creativity to the tradition. As a result, some consumers now choose to convert the cash portion of the dowry into these gold pieces—blending cultural artistry with the added benefits of value retention and collectability.
Another characteristic aspect of Chinese heritage is its zodiac-animal culture. The Chinese zodiac consists of 12 animals, each representing a different creature. Every lunisolar year is associated with a specific animal, and with the arrival of the Chinese New Year, a new animal symbol takes its place.
Because of the Chinese tradition of buying gold for the New Year and the close connection between zodiac culture and these celebrations, gold jewelry featuring zodiac elements has always been super popular.
These imaginative designs wouldn’t be possible without the support of ever-advancing craftsmanship. Li, who has worked at Caibai Jewelry for 24 years, recalled how many of his early design ideas were once deemed impossible to execute.
“Now, there are virtually no limits—if a designer can dream it, we can make it happen,” he continued. “From large-scale hollow patterns to delicate, fine lines and even twisted, unconventional shapes, the possibilities with gold have expanded.”
A vessel of culture
Chow Tai Fook, one of the largest and most well-known jewelry retail companies on the Chinese mainland and in Hong Kong Special Administrative Region, is also exploring the cultural connotations of gold. In collaboration with the Palace Museum, located in the former imperial residence in Beijing, Chow Tai Fook has brought consumers a visual feast of culture by incorporating elements from the museum’s abundant collection into their gold jewelry designs.
For example, the company has drawn inspiration from the copper lion, a symbolic figure that stands proudly inside the Palace Museum.
The copper lion carries deep meaning in Chinese culture. The lion is considered an auspicious creature, believed to protect against evil and bring strength and good fortune.
By incorporating this image into their gold jewelry, Chow Tai Fook has infused their creations with not only a visual representation of this cultural heritage but also with the representative power of the lion, offering wearers a connection to traditional Chinese beliefs in protection and prosperity.
“Such gold jewelry is particularly welcomed by today’s younger generations,” Kong Qinghua, General Manager of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery’s North China Region, told Beijing Review.
She explained that, on one hand, their deep cultural confidence fosters a strong connection to these unique tokens of heritage. On the other hand, the positive symbolism behind the designs adds emotional depth, allowing the pieces to offer not only aesthetic appeal but also personal sentiment.
Over the years, Chow Tai Fook has continuously innovated its product offerings. This includes creating lightweight collectible gold beans, gold charm beads with many meaningful layers, and intricately crafted casual gold pieces. These designs have successfully captured the attention and hearts of young consumers.
Regarding the relationship between gold and Chinese culture, Kong stated that the best way to preserve and pass on traditional culture is by integrating it into everyday life—bringing it into the streets and the homes of ordinary people.
It’s through this integration that timeless aesthetic heritage can be rejuvenated, according to Kong. Gold jewelry, she said, serves as a vessel—carrying centuries-old cultural abundance into the modern world, allowing it to continue to thrive and inspire future generations.
(Print Edition: Beyond the Bling)
Copyedited by Elsbeth van Paridon
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